
A 600 Mile Journey By Ski and Canoe
3/24-4/1
Well. . . we are here, all fifteen of us, at the NorthWoods
Stewardship Center in East Charleston,Vermont,
our new home for the month of April. We left from Somerset Reservoir two
months ago as a community getting
to know each other, excited about learning how to live in the bush in the
winter, with 300 miles of the beautiful
snow-covered Catamount Trail on our horizon, unsure of what we might see on
our journey. We have
encountered many things on this journey, both challenging obstacles and
purely blissful moments, each one of
us experiencing these as something slightly different. For some it was
passing through peaceful woods of White
Birch and Sugar Maple, watching the shadows of the trees dance around the
forest floor of sparkling white snow
as the sun spun around in the blue sky. . . or crossing the small gurgling
streams and watching the cold water
rush over the rocks. . . or coming to life in the frigid air to a morning
melody of Chris singing “the day begins,
the day begins, Oh joy the day begins”, accompanied by the cracking and
popping sounds from the woodstove.
. . or peacefully walking up a hill tipping Fir boughs until your arms just
can’t hold anymore. . . or ignoring the
sharp pain in your left shoulder from the weight of the skis in your
backpack as you hike alongside the rushing
highway . . . or feeling the sensation coming back to your fingertips as
you curl up next to the woodstove,
cuddling a steaming bowl of chagga. . . or grabbing onto trees to help you
right yourself from getting
pummeled by the sled. . . or feeling a slight twang of pain in your stomach
every time you hear that screeching
scraping sound of your skis barreling over rocks on the trail. . . or the
proud feeling of leaving a layover
knowing that the food pack-out went well, the group journal pages and thank
you notes were written, the e-
mail update was sent, your skis were waxed, you completed a Main Lesson
Page, you dried your boot liners, and
you sewed that patch on your pants. . . or the overwhelming feeling of
having to catch up in your journal from
six days ago and not even remembering what you did yesterday because each
day feels like a lifetime. . . or
feeling frustrated that you can’t remember which direction to face the door
of the tent. . . or dreaming of two
feet of powder covering the world outside and waking up to the sound of
rain falling on the fly. I could easily
write another sixteen pages of these single moments in time, for these are
the moments that, when pieced
together, cover the 300 miles of beautiful trail and roads of Vermont that
our feet and skis have covered. It is
an incredible feeling to know that these moments will always lie in the
exact places where they occurred, as well
as inside each one of us, as memories. I think of what Mary Stewart, one of
our guest storytellers told us, that
we have carried each other’s stories in our backpacks along this whole
journey. . and there is always room for
more in the depths of our eternal backpacks.
The final and fifth leg of our journey North was certainly made
up of many different stories and single
moments in time. We arrived at the NorthWoods Stewardship Center at
different times, our backpacks
overflowing with stories from the past week of individual and small group
solos. The Plan: Tom goes solo the
entire leg. Paul-Ivan, Hans and Colin spend two nights on their own and
meet up on the third day to finish the
leg. Daniel, Evan, Andy and Tommy do the same. Lily and Hannah spend two
nights on their own and meet up
with Sarah and Ilene on the third day. Sarah spends two nights on her own
and meets up with Ilene, Lily and
Hannah on the third day. Ilene and Evan spend one night alone then meet up
with each other on the second
day, then split up to meet their other groups on the third day. Chris,
Ashirah and Stefan spend two nights alone
and meet up on the third day. Sounds a little confusing. . but worked out
quite nicely, with a few minor
changes here and there. We each wrote out an Expedition Plan with planned
daily mileages, campsites and
travel routes, and would follow a safety plan of calling the Kroka Office
in Putney to tell Misha or Lynne (or the
voice on the answering machine) who we are, where we are, where we planned
on camping that night and how
we are.
Our last few hours at Sterling College, which was a wonderful “liveover”,
were spent hunched over V.A.S.T.
(Vermont Association of Snow Travelers) maps and Vermont Gazeteers as we
created our own Expedition Plans
for the thirty miles from Craftsbury Common to East Charleston. Some of us
who are more comfortable with a
map and compass were able to plan big bushwhacks and mountain and swamp
crossings, locating landmarks
and reading the topography of the land, a skill that is so important to
this nomadic and spontaneous way of
life. And for those of us who are not so navigationally gifted, such as
myself, it was enough of a challenge
figuring out which road we were on and in which town with a map that we
found out later was old and
mislabeled. But for all, it was quite a learning, and sometimes humbling
experience.
My first day hit me with one of the humbling experiences. An original plan
of “Head North from Sterling College
on road, Pick up Snowmobile Trail 16 to Lake Parker, camp at Lake Parker”
became “Head North from Sterling
College on road, miss the turn-off for the snowmobile trail, end up on
Creek Road, get directions, a magnet
with an eagle painted on it, and offered peanut butter fudge from Miss
Viola, walk along a road not labeled on
the map, walk into woods, walk out of woods, think that I am in South
Albany (where I should be), only to look
at the billboard of a church that clearly says “East Craftsbury Church” (a
few miles south from where I had
started. . yes, it baffled me too), have a nice lady in the Community
Center draw out a route for me on my map
in yellow marker, after explaining what all the “backpackers are doing
walking around” here, follow
Andersonville Road to Daniel’s Pond Road, make camp 1?2 mile down Daniel’s
Pond Road, five miles southwest of
Lake Parker.”
This is how some of our solos unfolded. . we found our own paths and our
daily destinations became wherever
we happened to be when we felt like stopping and setting camp for the
night. . . or when we thought that
darkness was soon approaching, although the latter usually occurred around
2 in the afternoon. We walked
along beautiful deserted dirt roads that weren’t on our maps, bushwhacked
and “farmwhacked” (in Daniel’s
case) through the mountains and forests (and occasional corn fields and
cedar bogs), found perfect campsites
with all of life’s necessities within a five-minute walk, also slept in a
broken-down school bus, fully furnished
with beds, carpet, a table and lawn chairs, a deck with an amazing
North-facing view of the mountains, a grill,
and interesting books to read (Sarah, Evan and I were thrilled with this
discovery), walked along ridges with
beautiful mountain views, played an intense game of cribbage with a
friendly woman (Colin got “skunked”),
followed Turkey, Otter, Coyote, Hare, Moose, Deer, and Raccoon tracks
around streams and into woods,
mingled with the locals, who gave directions that were just as interesting
as they were, observed Pileated
Woodpeckers in the early hours of morning, felt what it was like to not
have any idea where we were, then
experienced the pure joy of popping out onto a road or stream that we could
locate on the map, and
adventured up mountains in deep snow, crossed swamps, streams, rivers, and
muddy fields.
We had all chosen our own menus and packed our own food, which included
spaghetti, kasha, whole oats,
beans and quinoa, mashed potatoes, lentils, dried vegetables, cheese,
rolled oats, macaroni, bear mush, and
biscuit mix, which we cooked over open fires in our assortment of pots, fry
pans, and the coffee cans we
rescued from Sterling’s recycling center. However, we also enjoyed and
appreciated getting invited into homes
for pizza (Tom and Paul-Ivan) and shrimp and tea (Sarah), and being
generously offered pounds of pork,
hamburger meat and sausage, a candy bar and soda (but Colin did turn down
chicken, noodles, steak and
bacon). We were offered rides (some taken, some declined), advice (“that
mountain is gonna be a b*tch to
climb”), illegal substances (Lily declined an offer from a friendly
middle-aged woman), mugs of hot maple syrup
(Hannah had a lot of energy that morning), and good ‘ole friendly
conversation. . as well as some guarded
conversations, as people were, unfortunately, a little apprehensive of
“scary teenagers” walking along the roads
in small groups carrying axes, knives and saws, sometimes shoe-less and
wet, as Tom experienced. . . “So
there I was walking barefoot on someone’s driveway with my pants rolled up,
a blood-shot eye [from a
Hobblebush attack], clutching a huge piece of birch bark, which I intended
to start a fire with, in one arm, and a
big pair of boots in the other, when a big black SUV comes up the dirt
drive and powerfully glades to a stop.
‘Can I help you?’ says a lady poking her head out the window.” (Excerpt
from Tom’s Group Journal page). He
was only bushwhacking, folks!
We experienced the happiness and freedom of being able to make our own
decisions. . . of waking up with the
sunlight and deciding I’m going to hike twelve miles today, bushwhack up a
mountain, sit by a stream for forty-
five minutes eating day food, follow the tracks of a coyote into the woods
for a half-mile, sleep under a canoe
that was chained to a tree, and boil my beans and quinoa in sap.
Here are some other experiences: Ashirah had a beautiful hike through the
mountains on an unplowed road
that she had been told she “can’t get through on that road. . that’s for
darn sure!” Stefan had an amazing time
following his compass bearings, bushwhacking through the mountains. “My
successes felt very good!” Hannah
met some very kind people listening to Vermont Public Radio in a sugar
house, who gave her a whole mug of
steaming maple syrup and offered her a whole gallon, which we still have
not forgiven her for turning down!
Paul-Ivan was found lounging in a beach chair on private land. . in aviator
sunglasses, Han’s enjoyed the time
by himself and the freedom of the trail! Colin stopped to make his check-in
phone call with the office, “got
skunked in a game of cribbage, and left with five pounds of frozen meat.”
Evan found amazing campsites, one
with an amazing view of the Northeast Kingdom. “It felt good to be on my
own.” Chris felt inspired to write a
poem: Somewhere along the trail, I slipped onto my shell, And the Fir Tree,
Was the Fir Tree, And I was me, Now
what would you trade for that? Sarah and I held Hannah back from swimming
fifteen feet into the freezing Lake
Willoughby to grab a “20-footer” fish that lay dead on the ice (20 feet. .
1 1/2 feet. . what’s the difference? “Oh
come on, Ilene, it was at least TWO FEET!” Hannah has just said to me).
Tommy, Evan, Andy and Daniel (aka The
Lost Boys) spent five hours at Penelope’s house, doing farm chores, cooking
a breakfast with food that mostly
came from Penelope’s farm; scrambled eggs with broccoli, sausage,
lemon-balm tea, hash browns, and
grapefuit. Penelope volunteered to teach us about plant sex. The Lost Boys
also discovered a way to play
Dungeons and Dragons on the trail. Yep. . we had an incredible time. An
amazing final leg all the way up the hill
to our new home in the meadow at the NorthWoods Stewardship Center. We
celebrated our arrival here with an
evening of singing, contradancing, with Chris as our caller and Lily as our
fiddler, and eating salad, baked
macaroni and cheese and special homemade donuts with raisins, melted
chocolate dollops and carob powder,
which went very well with Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream.
We’ve set up our small village at the edge of the woods, complete with four
tents (one “circus tent” for the girls,
one wall tent for the boys, one larger wall tent for eating, cooking and
gathering, which Stefan has beautified
with shelves, and one tent for Chris, Ashirah and Stefan) and a beautiful
tool rack, which Tom has built. Thanks
to our Electricity Guru, Paul-Ivan, we are able to have light inside the
large wall tent, as long as we peddle the
human-powered generator for ten minutes each every day.
We have been living our life here with a nice balance of physical and brain
work; playing soccer and ultimate
Frisbee in our “front yard” or jogging in the mornings, taking
“see-what-we-can-see” walks in our “back yard”,
continuing camp chores, repairing and organizing all of the winter gear,
and wrapping up our Big Jobs with
presentations and Main Lesson Pages. We’re looking forward to our time
spent here; finishing our paddles,
making pack baskets from Brown Ash, building the canoe, choosing new Big
Jobs for the remainder of the
program, eating more fresh vegetables and homemade sourdough bread and
yogurt, and cutting back on our
lard intake, as well as many guest teachers, Main Lesson Pages, lessons,
soccer games, and contradancing (we
hope).
Now it is time for me to sign off as Scribe. . well, technically I’m still
scribe for another few days, but that’s not
long enough to write another e-mail update. It has been pure pleasure and
delight sharing our journey with you
by way of cyberspace. I appreciate the many people who have told me how
much they have enjoyed reading
about our experience and how many other people they have forwarded the
e-mails too. Spread the word of The
Vermont Semester Program!
I am reminded of a conversation that I had with Andy’s father, Jeff
Staudinger, at the Parent Visit in March. I told
him how sometimes it was difficult to write about such personal experiences
in the e-mail, not knowing exactly
who was reading them. He smiled and told me that if I needed the
inspiration of knowing who to write the
updates for that I could always think of “Andy’s dad”. . I could always
write to Andy’s dad. . and all the “Andy’s
dads” of the world. . because those are the people who care about what we
are doing on this journey.
So, to all of Andy’s dads. . I have written these updates for you. . . from
one heart to another. Take care!
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to request a view book or an application.
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